The Poetry of Mexico
Mexico City
I had just come out of an awful six-month relationship and needed a refresh. Thankfully that person and I are strangers again. I booked a last minute trip to Mexico City to meet my kids who were already vacationing there. It was my first time in Mexico since a trip to Acapulco 30 years ago in which my sightseeing was limited to the faucets and marble floors of the hotel bathroom. Need I say more?
There is nothing like leaving one's everyday environment to experience the vast and varied beauty of cultures in places far and further away. We may bring our problems and feelings with us in the suitcase, but oftentimes they take up so much less space by the time one leaves. I had heard so much about Mexico City from my kids and customers that I thought not only would it be a great adventure but also an opportunity to find new designers for the Poetry Of Material Things home store. Well, at least that's how I sold the trip to Scott.
Mexico City surpassed my expectations. From the kindness and generosity of the people, to the stunning architecture and culture and the delicious… DELICIOUS food.
I must admit what made it even more wonderful was how affordable everything was. A 20-minute Uber ride that I was convinced would cost $50, was instead $10. To sit in a fine restaurant with my kids and to be able to order…comfortably…rather than having to watch each exorbitant price as one does in NYC, was a true escape.
We just walked and walked. But let me share some of our favorite experiences and thanks to my children's (they're 22 and 26 but will always be my children) research… fabulous restaurants (make reservations).
Must Eat
Panaderia Rosetta
Breakfast, post-breakfast, pre-lunch, lunch, after tea. So I basically ate more pastry and bread at this cafe than I had denied myself for the entire year leading up to the trip and I didn't care. Soooooo good.
Lardo
My favorite restaurant. Gorgeous. Food? incredible, fabulous scene.
Tetelan
Lunch or dinner - No this was my favorite!! - Incredibly beautiful with a glass floor so you can see the rocks that the restaurant is built on.
Bella Aurora
Dinner - Delicious Italian food - Make sure to sit on the enchanting terrace.
Botanico
Dinner - This was without a doubt my favorite - Probably one of the most beautiful restaurants I’ve ever been in. They had me at the 20-foot cacti.
Must Do
Floating Gardens
Bring your lunch, hire your own gondola, and definitely request a song or four from one of the many Mariachi bands standing on the sides of the canals. They embark, serenade with a song or two (for a fair price) and disembark.
Frida Kahlo Museum
It's not just the vibrant Azul blue of this beautiful home, it's that you can feel the recent history of the place. Is this spot in the garden where Frida started flirting with Trotsky? Yes Diego, two can play the same game. And frankly, the whole arrangement of her and Diego having their own quarters in the house is quite brilliant.
Casa Louis Barragan
The architect's museum is meant to be a splendid place to visit. However, please learn from our mistake and make a bloody reservation. We couldn't get in. However, we did have some great ice cream close by.
Museum Of Anthropology
Don't miss this!! The museum is a place of wonder. The rooms of the museum show the cultures that developed in Central Mexico and are organized in chronological order. The gardens consisted of an (Aztec) exhibit, full of monumental stone sculptures. The entire visit felt like a quiet and deep meditation.
Mercado De Coyoacan
This massive two-story market crosses over from an activity to food. The edible insect stall is a sight to behold. The vegetables and fruits. The smell and colors. One feels immersed in Mexican culture.
Must Shop
I had slightly higher expectations of the clothes shopping in Mexico City but the few home decor stores more than made up for it. I left with a huge bag of bubble-wrapped ceramics and a 36’ hot pink candle that I apparently absolutely needed and carried through customs. It will look gorgeous hanging in my Villa (when I get one). I did come across a fantastic line of ceramics by Isai Pineda and his Cara De Planta team. They are quite specific and not for everyone. But we couldn't resist bringing the line to the store. I did find out that Oaxaca is the design hub and also a small paradise. Scott and I are planning a trip to bring back more collections. In the meantime add it to your itinerary if you can.
Ikal Store
Clothing and accessories by a wide range of designers.
Lago
Loved this shop and the wonderful people that work there. Don't miss it. In one of the more bougie neighborhoods.
Onora Casa
Another fantastically curated selection of home goods.
Must Stay
I stayed at a breathtaking, very popular and well-priced hotel called Downtown. My room was probably one of the most beautiful rooms I have ever stayed in. Note - Rooms can be noisy from the downstairs restaurant and make sure not to allow in that one mosquito in, who wants to dance with you all night long.
However, as much as it was very centrally located, in terms of congestion it did feel quite Time Square-ish. That being said, remember the inexpensive Uber rides.
My kids, on the other hand, got a fantastic Airbnb in a GORGEOUS neighborhood called Roma Norte, which is adjacent to another beautiful neighborhood called Colonia Condesa. It's one of those places that in a delusional vacation moment you decide you’re moving to. It felt much more West Villagey and has amazing architecture, shops, and cafes. Actuallly more cool than the west Village now. I do think there are more Airbnbs than hotels.
Travel is not easy. It requires a lot of prep and can be expensive and stress-inducing. But there is something about the ‘poetry of travel’ that has me coming back with a lighter and happier state of being. Please don't wait. It's now.
Love,
Ruth
xox
